Appendix

Guided projects

The projects MakerSketch guides you through, step by step, as the project card shows them.

#Calibration Cube

Design the cube every maker prints first: 1 inch, rounded, with X, Y and Z marked so you can check your printer. About 20 minutes, and it prints in about an hour.

Sketch · round · engrave

#Make the cube

1. Start a sketch on Top

• Tap the Top plane.

Why: A cube starts as a square on the ground, pushed up.

2. Draw a 1 inch square

• Pick Rectangle.
• Tap the corner dot where the planes cross, then the opposite one: 25.4 mm a side.

Why: 1 inch is 25.4 mm. A size you know exactly is what makes this cube a test: measure it after printing and you'll see how true your printer is.

3. Make it a cube

• Tap Finish Sketch.
• Tap your square.
• Tap the number, type 25.4 and tap Set: that makes it.
• Or drag the arrow up to 25.4 and tap Done.

Why: Straight up from the square, so the cube sits on the ground: as tall as it is wide.

#Round every edge

4. Round the upright edges

• Tap each of the four upright edges.
• Make the rounding 2 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: Sharp corners chip and catch. A 2 mm round feels finished and still leaves a big flat face to mark.

5. Round the top and bottom

• Tap the top edge: it goes all the way round now.
• Tap the bottom edge too (turn the cube to reach it).
• Make it 2 mm, and tap Done.

Why: Where three 2 mm rounds meet, the corner comes out as a ball. Round everything before you cut into it: a fillet works on the cube as it was made.

#Mark the top

6. Sketch on the top face

• Tap the top of the cube.

Why: The mark for Z goes on top: Z is the axis you measure from the bottom to the top.

7. Draw a ring

• Pick Circle. Tap the middle dot, then the dot 10 mm out.
• Pick Circle again. Tap the middle dot, then the dot 8.5 mm out.

Why: Two circles, one inside the other, make a ring: the band between them is its own shape you can cut.

8. Type a Z

• Pick Text.
• Tap the top left dot, then the bottom right one.
• Type Z and tap Done.

Why: Letters you type are shapes too, so you can cut them. Text in a sketch starts 10 mm tall: the box's first corner is the letter's top left.

9. Cut them in

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the band between the circles.
• Drag the arrow down into the cube: it turns to Cut. Make it 0.6 mm, Done.
• Tap the Z and cut it 0.6 mm too.

Why: 0.6 mm is three layers on most printers: deep enough to see and feel, shallow enough to leave the faces flat for your calipers.

#Mark the sides

10. Ring and Y on the front

• Tap the face towards you to sketch on it.
• Draw the ring: circles of radius 10 and 8.5 from the middle dot.
• Pick Text, tap the two dots, and type Y.

Why: Y is the axis you measure from front to back, so the Y goes on the front. Same moves as the top.

11. Cut the front

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the band between the circles, and cut it 0.6 mm.
• Tap the Y and cut it 0.6 mm.

Why: From a face, dragging inward always cuts.

12. Ring and X on the right

• Tap the face on the right to sketch on it.
• Draw the ring: circles of radius 10 and 8.5 from the middle dot.
• Pick Text, tap the two dots, and type X.

Why: X is the axis you measure from left to right, so the X goes on the right.

13. Cut the right

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the band, and cut it 0.6 mm.
• Tap the X and cut it 0.6 mm.

Why: Three faces marked: one for each axis.

#Ring the other faces

14. Ring the back, left and bottom

• Turn the cube with one finger until you see the back.
• Tap it, draw the same two circles, Finish, and cut the band 0.6 mm.
• Do the same on the left, then turn the cube over for the bottom.

Why: A ring on every face makes the cube look the same all round, and turning it to reach the hidden faces is a move you'll use on every part.

#Get it ready to print

15. Export it to print

• Tap Export to print.
• Keep STL, then save it or send it to your slicer app.

Why: Print it on any face; the bottom is a good choice. When it's done, measure across each pair of faces: X, Y and Z should each read 25.4 mm.

Offers Export to print.

#Wing Nut and Bolt

Make a bolt and a wing nut that screw together: threads, a cut, and a quarter-millimetre gap. About 20 minutes.

Threads that screw together

#Make the head

1. Start a sketch on Top

• Tap the Top plane.

Why: The head is a hexagon lying flat, so it's drawn on Top and pushed up.

2. Draw a hexagon

• Tap Polygon. It starts with five sides: type 6, then Enter.
• Tap the centre dot, then tap a corner of the faint hexagon.

Why: Spanners grip the flat sides, so a hex is sized across its flats. The faint hexagon's flats are 24 mm apart: a 24 mm spanner fits it.

3. Push it up 8 mm

• Tap Finish Sketch.
• Tap your hexagon.
• Keep Extrude and make it 8 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: A hex isn't round, so it can't be spun: it's pushed straight up instead.

#Grow the shaft

4. Draw half the shaft on Front

• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Front.
• Pick Line: start on the centre line 3 mm up, go out 7 mm, then up to 46 mm.
• Go in 1 mm and up 1 mm to the tip at 47 mm, then back to the centre line and Close.

Why: The shaft is round, so draw half of it and spin it, like the mug. It starts inside the head so the two print as one. Keep these dimensions exact: the nut and thread must match.

5. Spin it onto the head

• Tap Finish Sketch, then your shaft.
• Choose Revolve, keep Full.
• Pick Add, so it joins the head.
• Tap Done.

Why: Same move as the mug's body. Add joins it to the head: one solid, one piece.

#Make the nut

6. Draw the nut round the bolt

• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Front.
• Draw the ring from 22 to 34 mm up: 7.25 out from the centre line, to 13 out, 12 tall.
• Cut the bottom inside corner at 45°, 1 mm each way.

Why: Drawn away from the centre line, it spins into a ring with a hole. Keep these matching dimensions exact: 7.25 is the shaft's 7 plus a 0.25 mm gap. The chamfer leads the bolt in; your test print still decides the final fit.

7. Spin the nut

• Tap Finish Sketch, then your ring.
• Choose Revolve, keep Full and New Body.
• Tap Done.

Why: New Body keeps the nut its own solid, so it prints as its own piece.

8. Thread the nut

• Tap Thread in the tools. Choose Hole Ø14.5 mm from the target menu.
• Keep Pitch 3 mm, Length 12 mm and Clearance 0.25 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: Thread recognises the hole and cuts its groove automatically. Clearance gives the matching bolt room to turn. This is a custom printable thread, not a machine-fastener size.

Shows the Thread cut card.

#Thread the bolt

9. Thread the bolt

• Tap Thread. Choose Shaft Ø14 mm from the target menu.
• Keep Pitch 3 mm and Length 43 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: The same pitch and profile make the threads match. Thread adds to the shaft automatically, eases in at the ends, and stops before its chamfered tip.

Shows the Thread card.

#Wings and fit

10. Draw the wings

• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Front.
• Trace the dashed wing, then the one at the dots on the other side.

Why: Wings give your fingers something to turn. Each starts inside the nut, so it joins on.

11. Make the wings solid

• Tap Finish Sketch, then one wing.
• Keep Extrude, switch on Symmetric, pick Add, make it 4 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other wing.

Why: Like the mug's handle: Symmetric pushes out both ways from the middle, and Add joins it to the nut.

12. Check it's two pieces

• Turn the model and look through the gap between the nut and the bolt.

Why: In CAD you check the fit before you print. A gap all round means they come apart as two pieces, laid side by side when you export.

#Pi Zero Case

Design a faceted case for a Raspberry Pi Zero: a base with heat-set insert bosses and real port openings, and a sloped hood with a vented window and a light pipe that holds on with magnets, all sketched on their own faces. About 75 minutes; no Pi needed to make it.

Faces · bosses · ports · lid

#Make the shell

1. Start a sketch on Top

• Tap the Top plane.

Why: The base lies flat on the print bed, so it starts as a shape on Top, pushed up.

2. Draw the outside, corners cut

• Pick Polyline. Tap the eight dots round the dashed outline in turn, then the first one again to close it.

Why: Cutting the corners in the sketch makes the faceted look in one move: every face you extrude from it keeps the cut. Each dot snaps exactly. 86 × 36 fits the 65 × 30 board, magnet corners at each end and 2 mm walls.

3. Push it up 15 mm

• Tap Finish Sketch.
• Tap your shape.
• Keep Extrude and New Body. Drag the arrow up, or tap the number on it and type 15.
• Tap Done.

Why: 15 mm holds a 3 mm floor, the board on its bosses, and plugs with 2 mm of wall still above them.

#Hollow it out

4. Hollow it with Shell

• Tap Shell in the tools, then the top of the block: it opens there.
• Tap the floor's number on the part and type 3.
• Tap the wall's number and type 2: that hollows it.

Why: Shell hollows a solid in one go and keeps every wall the same thickness, even round the cut corners. 2 mm walls are strong; a 3 mm floor is thick enough that the feet's recesses, cut up into it later, still leave 2 mm.

#Corners for the magnets

5. Sketch on the floor

• Tap the floor inside the shell.

Why: The lid will hold on with four small magnets. They need solid corners to sit in, and corners grow up from the floor.

6. Draw four corner squares

• Pick Rectangle. Tap an inside corner's dot, then the dot across from it.
• Do the same in the other three corners.

Why: 7 to 7.5 mm square leaves at least 1.2 mm of plastic round a 5 mm magnet. The squares run into the walls, so each column joins the wall as it grows.

7. Raise them to the rim

• Tap Finish Sketch, then Top on the view cube.
• Tap a square, drag its arrow up: it adds. Make it 12 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: 12 mm from the 3 mm floor reaches the 15 mm rim exactly, so the magnets end flush with the top and the lid sits flat. The columns also make each corner solid underneath, where the feet go.

8. Sketch on the rim

• Tap the top of a corner column.

Why: The magnets drop in from the top, so their pockets are drawn on the rim and cut down.

9. Draw the magnet pockets

• Pick Circle. Tap a pocket's centre dot, then the dot on its edge.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: A 5 mm magnet needs a 5.2 mm hole: printed holes come out a little small, and the magnet must press in without cracking the column.

10. Cut them 3 mm deep

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a circle.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Make it 3 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: The magnets are 2 mm thick. 3 mm sets them 1 mm below the rim, so the lid closes on the plastic, not on the magnets.

#Taper the bottom

11. Cut the bottom off

• Tap Extrude, then the base's underside: the view has turned to look up at it.
• Drag the arrow up into the base: it cuts. Make it 6.5 mm, Done.

Why: The bottom 6.5 mm is going to lean in towards the bed, so the base looks lighter and still prints with no support. Take it off first; the next steps grow it back with a draft, which leans every side in alike, the cut corners too.

12. Sketch under the walls

• Tap the bottom edge of a wall, the thin face you just cut.

Why: The new bottom grows down from here, so its outline is drawn on the walls' underside.

13. Draw the outside again

• Pick Polyline. Tap the eight dots round the dashed outline in turn, then the first one again to close it.

Why: The same outline as the walls above, so the new bottom starts flush with them before it leans in.

14. Grow it down with a draft

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the outline.
• Drag the arrow down to the bed: it adds. Make it 6.5 mm.
• Tap Draft and type 21, then Done.

Why: Draft leans every wall in as it goes away from the sketch. 21° brings the sides 2.5 mm in by the bed, the cut corners with them, gentle enough to print without support.

15. Hollow it again, leaning in

• Tap Extrude, then the solid floor inside.
• Drag the arrow down into it: it cuts. Make it 3.5 mm, back to the 3 mm floor.
• Tap Draft and type 21, then Done.

Why: The new bottom came back solid. Cutting out the floor's own outline, round the corner columns, with the same 21° keeps the walls 2 mm thick all the way down, parallel to the outside.

#Hold the board

16. Sketch on the floor again

• Tap the floor between the corners.

Why: The board stands on four bosses, and they grow from the floor like the columns did.

17. Draw four bosses

• Pick Circle. Tap a hole's centre dot, then the dot 4 mm out on its edge.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: The dots are the board's mounting holes, 58 × 23 mm apart. An M2.5 heat-set insert needs a 4 mm hole with 1.6 mm of plastic round it: 8 mm bosses.

18. Make them 4 mm tall

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a boss.
• Drag its arrow up: it adds. Make it 4 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: 4 mm on the 3 mm floor holds the board 7 mm up: room for air under it, and its ports line up with the openings you cut next.

19. Sketch on a boss

• Tap the top of a boss.

Why: The insert goes in from the top, so its hole is drawn on top of the boss.

20. Draw the insert holes

• Pick Circle. Tap a boss's centre dot, then the dot 2 mm out on its edge.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: A heat-set insert is a brass sleeve you melt in with a soldering iron. Its hole is smaller than its knurls, so the plastic flows into them and grips: 4 mm for an M2.5 × 4 insert.

21. Cut them 4.5 mm deep

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a hole.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Tap its number and type 4.5, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: The hole only has to hold the insert: 4 mm long, plus 0.5 mm for the plastic it pushes down as it melts in. It reaches just 0.5 mm into the 3 mm floor, so 2.5 mm stays under it, well clear of the feet's recesses.

22. Put the Pi in

• Tap Insert, then Boards under Electronics, and pick Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W.
• Tap Insert: it lands beside the case.

Why: A model of the real board shows whether everything fits before you print.

23. Sit it on the bosses

• Double-tap the Pi: its Move handles open.
• Drag the X arrow towards the case until it reads −88, Y to 2 and Z up to 7. Or tap a handle's number and type it.
• Tap Done.

Why: 88 mm back along X brings it over the case, 2 along Y lines its holes up with the bosses, and 7 up sets it on their tops. Its ports now face the front wall, so you can see where each opening goes.

#Open the ports

24. Sketch on the front

• Tap the long side facing you: the view has turned to face it.

Why: The ports come out of the front, so the openings are drawn on it.

25. Draw the three openings

• Pick Rectangle and trace the dashed mini HDMI opening, 14 × 7 mm.
• Trace the two USB openings, 10 × 6 mm each.

Why: Each opening centres on its port and is sized for the plug's moulded end, not the socket: a plug that won't reach is the most common case mistake.

26. Cut through the wall

• Tap Finish Sketch, then an opening.
• Drag the arrow into the wall: it turns to Cut. Make it 3 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other two.

Why: The wall is 2 mm; cutting 3 goes clean through it and stops before it reaches the board.

27. Sketch on the front again

• Tap the long side facing you.

Why: A plug's moulded end is bigger than its tip. The openings get a lead-in on the outside so the plug seats fully.

28. Draw a lead-in round each opening

• Pick Rectangle and trace the three dashed outlines, each 1 mm bigger all round than its opening.

Why: 1 mm more on every side. Cut 1 mm deep, it makes a step round each opening: a chamfer you can make with a sketch and a cut.

29. Cut them 1 mm in

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a lead-in.
• Drag the arrow into the wall: it cuts. Make it 1 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other two.

Why: Half the 2 mm wall: the step guides the plug, and the wall behind it still holds the opening's shape.

30. Sketch on the left end

• Tap the short end on the left: the view has turned to face it.

Why: The micro SD card sticks out of the board's left end, so its slot is drawn there.

31. Draw the SD card slot

• Pick Rectangle and trace the dashed slot: 12 mm across, 7.5 to 10.5 mm up.

Why: The micro SD card sits on top of the board, just above its 7 mm. A 12 × 3 mm slot lets the 11 mm card slide in and out, with wall left above it.

32. Cut through the end

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the slot.
• Drag the arrow into the end: it turns to Cut. Make it 3 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: Through the 2 mm end wall, the same as the ports.

33. Sketch on the right end

• Tap the short end on the right.

Why: The camera socket is on the board's right end. Its ribbon cable needs a way out.

34. Draw the camera slot

• Pick Rectangle and trace the dashed slot: 14 mm across, 8 to 10.5 mm up.

Why: The camera's flat ribbon leaves the socket level with the board's top. A 14 mm slot passes the 11.5 mm ribbon without bending it sharply.

35. Cut through the end

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the slot.
• Drag the arrow into the end: it turns to Cut. Make it 3 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: Through the 2 mm wall again: now both ends are open where the board needs them.

#Feet underneath

36. Sketch under the base

• Tap the base's underside: the view has turned to look up at it.

Why: Stick-on silicone feet stop the case sliding about. Recesses for them are cut up into the underside.

37. Draw four feet

• Pick Circle. Tap a corner's centre dot, then the dot on its edge.
• Do the same in the other three corners.

Why: A foot in each corner keeps the case steady, however you press on it. Feet 8 mm across fit an 8.4 mm recess, set in just far enough to stay on the flat inside the sloped edges.

38. Cut them 1 mm up

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a circle.
• Drag the arrow into the base: it cuts. Make it 1 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: The feet sit half in, half out, so they grip the table and can't be knocked off. The 3 mm floor keeps 2 mm over each recess, and the corner columns above make it solid there.

#Make the lid

39. Sketch on Top, beside the base

• Tap Fit View under the view cube.
• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Top.

Why: The lid is a second part. It's made where it prints: flat on the bed beside the base, the side that meets the base down.

40. Draw the lid's outline

• Pick Polyline. Tap the eight dots round the dashed outline, 46 mm back, then the first one again to close it.

Why: The same outline as the base, so the facets carry on up when it's on. 46 mm back leaves 10 mm between the two parts on the bed.

41. Push it up 7 mm

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the lid's shape.
• Keep Extrude and New Body, and make it 7 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: 7 mm is just over the hood's highest point, 6.5. You'll carve the slope out of this block later; first, cut what needs a flat top to cut from.

#Seat the window

42. Sketch on the lid's top

• Tap the top of the lid.

Why: A clear window drops into the lid from above. Its seat is cut down from the top while the top is still flat.

43. Draw the window's seat

• Pick Rectangle and tap the dashed seat's two corner dots: 52.4 by 15.9 mm.

Why: The window is 52 × 15.5 mm. 0.2 mm more all round lets it drop in.

44. Cut the seat 6 mm down

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the seat.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Make it 6 mm.
• Tap Done.

Why: 6 of the 7 mm leaves a 1 mm floor: the ledge the window rests on.

45. Sketch on the ledge

• Tap the floor of the seat.

Why: You look through the window, so the ledge needs an opening, smaller than the window so it can't fall through.

46. Draw the opening

• Pick Rectangle and tap the dashed opening's two corner dots: 48 by 11.5 mm.

Why: 2.2 mm smaller on every side than the seat: that's the ledge holding the window.

47. Cut it through

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the opening.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Make it 1 mm, Done.

Why: 1 mm is all the ledge there is, so the opening goes right through.

48. Sketch on the top again

• Tap the top of the lid.

Why: One more opening needs the flat top: the slot over the board's GPIO pins.

49. Draw the GPIO slot

• Pick Rectangle and tap the dashed slot's two corner dots, along the back: 53 by 5.5 mm.

Why: The GPIO pins run along the board's back edge. The slot lets a ribbon cable or a HAT's header through the lid.

50. Cut it through

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the slot.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Make it 7 mm, Done.

Why: The whole height of the lid, so the slot opens right through.

#Shape the hood

51. Sketch on the lid's end

• Tap the lid's short end on the right.

Why: The hood's slope is the same all along the lid, so it's drawn once, on the end, and cut right through.

52. Draw the hood's slope

• Pick Polyline. Tap the dots along the dashed slope, front to back: 2 mm up at the front, rising to 6.5, down to 4.5 at the back.
• Tap the two dots above the lid, then Close.

Why: Everything above the slope is cut away: low at the front where the ports are, rising over the board, a short facet down at the back. That's the wedge's silhouette.

53. Cut it along the lid

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the shape.
• Drag the arrow into the lid: it cuts. Make it 90 mm, a little past its far end.
• Tap Done.

Why: One cut the whole length carves the hood. It cuts through the window's seat and the GPIO slot too: they were cut first, while the top was flat.

#Underneath the lid

54. Sketch under the lid

• Tap the lid's underside: the view has turned to look up at it.

Why: The magnets meet the base's from below, so their pockets are cut up into the lid's underside.

55. Draw the lid's magnets

• Pick Circle. Tap a corner's centre dot, then the dot on its edge.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: Over the base's corner columns: each lid magnet lands on a base magnet, and the pair pulls the lid down and into place.

56. Cut them 2 mm up

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a circle.
• Drag the arrow into the lid: it cuts. Make it 2 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other three.

Why: The hood is at least 4 mm thick over the corners, so at least 2 mm stays over each magnet, and the magnet sits flush with the underside: hidden outside, still strong.

57. Sketch under the lid again

• Tap the lid's underside.

Why: A light pipe carries the board's green activity LED to the front of the lid. It lies in a groove under the lid.

58. Draw the light pipe's groove

• Pick Rectangle and trace the dashed groove from the lid's front edge: 10.4 by 10.8 mm.

Why: The light pipe's pad is 10 × 10.8 mm; 0.2 mm each side lets it slide in. The groove runs out to the front edge, where its end glows.

59. Cut it 1 mm up

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the groove.
• Drag the arrow into the lid: it cuts. Make it 1 mm, Done.

Why: The pad is 1 mm thick, so it sits flush. At the front the hood is 2 mm, so 1 mm stays above the slit.

#The window

60. Sketch on Top for the window

• Tap Fit View under the view cube.
• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Top.

Why: The window is a third part: print it in clear plastic, or cut it from 3 mm acrylic.

61. Draw the window

• Pick Rectangle and tap the two dots past the lid: 52 by 15.5 mm.

Why: 0.2 mm smaller all round than its seat, so it drops in.

62. Make it 3 mm thick

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the window.
• Keep New Body, make it 3 mm, Done.

Why: 3 mm, like a sheet of acrylic. In its seat it sits 1 to 2 mm below the hood, framed by the lid.

63. Sketch on the window

• Tap the top of the window.

Why: The chip under its heatsink warms up. Vents through the window over it let the heat out.

64. Draw the graded vents

• Pick Rectangle and trace the seven dashed slots, 1 mm wide, by their corner dots: short at the ends, longest in the middle.

Why: Seven slots graded from open to solid: longest over the hot middle of the chip, shorter towards its edges.

65. Cut them through

• Tap Finish Sketch, then a slot.
• Drag the arrow down: it cuts. Make it 3 mm, Done.
• Do the same for the other six.

Why: 3 mm is the window's whole thickness, so each one opens right through.

#The light pipe

66. Sketch on Top for the light pipe

• Tap Sketch in the tools and choose On Top.

Why: The light pipe is the fourth part, printed in clear or white plastic: light goes in at its post and comes out at the end of its pad.

67. Draw its pad

• Pick Rectangle and tap the dots beside the window: 10 by 10.8 mm.

Why: The pad lies in the lid's groove with its end at the front edge: that end is the glowing slit.

68. Make it 1 mm thick

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the pad.
• Keep New Body, make it 1 mm, Done.

Why: 1 mm, the groove's depth, so it sits flush under the lid.

69. Sketch on the pad

• Tap the top of the pad.

Why: The post reaches down from the pad to just above the LED.

70. Draw the post

• Pick Circle, tap the centre dot near the pad's front corner, then the dot beside it on its edge.

Why: The pad goes in upside down, so a post drawn near this edge ends up over the LED at the board's front right. 2.5 mm across carries plenty of light.

71. Raise it 4 mm

• Tap Finish Sketch, then the circle.
• Drag the arrow up: it adds. Make it 4 mm, Done.

Why: With the lid on, 4 mm ends the post just above the screw head beside the LED, close enough to catch its light.

#Put it together

72. Put the lid on the base

• Tap Fit View under the view cube, then double-tap the lid: its Move handles open.
• Drag the Y arrow towards the base until it reads −46, and the Z arrow up until it reads 15, then Done. Close isn't enough? Tap a handle's number and type it.

Why: An assembly shows the parts where they go together, without changing how they print: Make still lays each one flat on the bed. 46 mm forward brings the lid over the base; 15 mm up sits it on the rim.

73. Drop the window into its seat

• Double-tap the window: its Move handles open.
• Drag the arrows until they read X 16, Y −81 and Z 16, or tap a handle's number and type it. Then Done.

Why: The seat's ledge is 1 mm above the lid's underside, and the lid now sits 15 up: so the window goes 16 up. 16 along and 81 forward puts it over the opening, 0.2 mm clear of the seat all round.

74. Turn the light pipe into its groove

• Double-tap the light pipe: its Move handles open.
• Tap Turn and drag the X ring round until it reads 180°: it turns over, post down.
• Tap Move and drag the arrows until they read Y −90 and Z 11, or tap a handle's number and type it. Then Done.

Why: It printed pad down, post up; it goes in pad up, post down to the LED. Turning it over is the one move a flat print can't show you: in the assembly you see the post land beside the board's LED.

75. See it together

• Tap Assembly at the top.
• Turn on Exploded view to see how the parts stack, then turn it off.

Why: Design and Assembly show the case put together; Make shows what prints. The parts are the same: an assembly only says where each one goes.

#Get it ready to print

76. Export it to print

• Tap Export to print.
• Keep STL, then save it or send it to your slicer app.

Why: Export takes the parts as they print, not as assembled: each one flat side on the bed. Walls go straight up, the hood slopes gently and openings bridge in short spans, so nothing needs supports.

Offers Export to print.

#Operation cards

What a step's operation card explains.